羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么


发布时间:

2026-09-30

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么?HPR的作用、特点及化妆品应用介绍

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么?如果你在护肤品配方、化妆品原料表或者维A类原料资料中看到 “Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate”或“HPR”,通常指的就是羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯。 它属于维A类化合物中的一种视黄酸酯类衍生物,近年来主要应用于抗老、改善皮肤状态等功效型护肤品配方中。

与消费者比较熟悉的视黄醇(Retinol)相比,羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯的分子结构、作用方式以及配方应用都有一定区别。 因此,在选择HPR原料或者开发维A类护肤产品时,不能简单地把HPR理解成“另一种视黄醇”。

一、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么?

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯英文名称为Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, 通常简称为HPR。 它是一种与维生素A家族相关的视黄酸酯类化合物。

从化学结构来看,HPR可以理解为视黄酸经过酯化后形成的一种衍生物。 这一结构使它既保留了维A类化合物的结构特征,又与传统视黄醇、视黄醛等成分存在明显区别。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯常见基础信息如下:

中文名称羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯
英文名称Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
简称HPR
CAS号893412-73-2
分子式C26H38O3
分子量约398.58 g/mol
INCI名称Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
原料类型维A类、视黄酸酯类化合物

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么(图1)

二、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯和视黄醇是什么关系?

很多人在了解羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯时,最容易产生的疑问就是:HPR是不是视黄醇?

答案是:不是。

HPR、视黄醇(Retinol)、视黄醛(Retinal)以及视黄酸(Retinoic Acid) 都属于维A类相关成分,但是它们是不同的化合物。

传统的视黄醇通常需要在皮肤相关代谢过程中先转化为视黄醛, 随后进一步形成具有生物活性的视黄酸相关形式。

而HPR本身属于视黄酸酯类衍生物。 一些公开研究及原料技术资料表明, HPR能够参与视黄酸受体相关作用通路, 这也是它近年来受到化妆品配方开发关注的重要原因之一。

三、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯有什么作用?

从化妆品应用角度看,羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯主要被应用于抗老和皮肤调理类产品。 目前关于HPR及相关递送体系的研究主要集中在皮肤老化、胶原相关表达、 皮肤屏障、色素以及皮脂相关指标等方向。

1. 抗老类护肤产品

维A类成分长期以来都是抗老护肤研究中的重要方向。 HPR也因此主要被用于精华液、面霜、眼部护理以及其他抗老配方中。

部分实验研究观察到HPR相关配方对I型胶原相关基因、 弹性蛋白相关指标等产生影响, 因此HPR常被作为抗老配方中的活性原料之一进行研究。

2. 改善皮肤粗糙和肤质

维A类成分与表皮更新、角质层状态以及皮肤纹理调节密切相关。 因此,HPR在化妆品中的应用方向通常不仅是“抗皱”, 也包括改善皮肤粗糙、肤质不均以及整体皮肤状态。

3. 油脂和痘肌方向

部分研究还关注HPR相关体系对5α-还原酶等皮脂相关指标的影响, 因此市场上也能看到将HPR应用于油性皮肤或痘肌护理产品的情况。

不过,具体护肤效果会受到HPR含量、原料纯度、配方体系、 包裹技术、其他复配成分以及使用周期等多种因素影响, 不能仅凭“配方中含有HPR”就判断最终产品一定具有相同效果。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么(图2)

四、HPR为什么被称为新一代维A类原料?

HPR受到化妆品研发人员关注,一个重要原因就是它试图解决传统维A类配方中的两个核心问题:活性与使用体验之间的平衡,以及配方稳定性问题。

传统视黄醇已经拥有较长的化妆品应用历史, 但视黄醇本身对光、氧、温度等条件比较敏感, 产品开发时通常需要特别考虑抗氧化、避光、包装以及储存条件。

HPR采用不同的分子结构,因此在维A类配方开发中提供了另一种原料选择。

需要注意的是,“新一代维A”“更温和”等属于行业中常见的描述方式, 实际刺激性仍与最终产品浓度、载体体系、其他成分以及消费者自身皮肤耐受情况有关, 不能理解为HPR完全不会产生刺激。

五、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯和视黄醇有什么区别?

对比项目羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯 HPR视黄醇 Retinol
原料类型视黄酸酯类衍生物维生素A醇类
英文名称Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateRetinol
CAS号893412-73-268-26-8
是否为同一种物质不是,两者属于不同的维A类化合物
主要应用抗老、皮肤调理等功效型化妆品抗老、改善肤质等功效型化妆品
配方要求需要关注稳定性、光照、氧化及体系兼容性需要特别关注光、氧、温度及配方稳定性

六、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯可以用于哪些产品?

HPR目前主要用于功效型护肤品,例如:

  • 抗老精华液;

  • 抗皱面霜;

  • 眼部护理产品;

  • 紧致类护肤产品;

  • 夜间修护类产品;

  • 油性皮肤及毛孔护理产品;

  • 其他维A类功效护肤配方。

由于HPR属于脂溶性较强的维A类原料, 在实际配方开发中通常需要结合油相、乳化体系或者专门的载体体系使用。 不同纯度、不同商品化形态的HPR,其添加方式也可能存在差异。

七、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯添加量是多少?

对于这个问题,需要特别区分“纯HPR原料含量”和“商品化复配原料的添加量”。

市场上部分所谓“HPR原料”实际上是HPR与溶剂、油脂或其他载体组成的复配产品, 因此供应商建议添加5%的某种HPR商品原料, 并不代表最终配方中含有5%的纯HPR。

部分HPR技术资料给出的纯活性物应用建议范围可低至约0.01%, 并根据具体产品和法规要求调整。 中国化妆品已使用原料相关公开资料中, 羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯也可以查询到驻留类产品的历史使用信息。

因此,实际产品开发时应根据原料规格书、纯度、法规、 产品类型以及安全评估结果确定最终添加量,而不能直接套用网络上的单一百分比。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么(图3)

八、使用HPR原料时需要注意什么?

1. 注意避光

HPR仍属于维A类原料,因此产品生产、包装和储存过程中应关注光照影响, 通常建议选择具有一定避光能力的包装。

2. 注意氧化问题

维A类化合物通常需要关注空气和氧化环境, 配方开发时可以根据实际体系考虑抗氧化剂、 螯合剂以及降低包装内部空气接触等措施。

3. 注意温度

原料储存以及生产过程中的温度都可能影响HPR稳定性, 具体储存条件应以供应商提供的TDS、SDS和稳定性资料为准。

4. 不要只看商品原料名称判断HPR含量

不同供应商提供的产品可能是99% HPR纯品, 也可能是10%、5%甚至更低活性物含量的复配原料。

采购时应重点查看COA或者规格书中的实际HPR含量, 而不是仅根据产品名称或者建议添加量进行判断。

九、采购羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯需要看哪些参数?

如果是化妆品工厂、品牌方或者配方研发人员采购HPR, 建议至少确认以下几个项目:

  • CAS号:是否为893412-73-2;

  • INCI名称:是否为Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate;

  • 纯度:确认是纯HPR还是复配型HPR原料;

  • 检测方法:例如HPLC检测条件及纯度计算方法;

  • 外观:是否与产品规格要求一致;

  • COA:确认不同批次检测数据;

  • SDS:了解运输和安全操作要求;

  • TDS:确认溶解方式、添加方式及储存条件;

  • 稳定性:了解光照、温度及氧化条件下的稳定性;

  • 包装和运输:确认是否需要避光、密封及低温运输。

十、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么?简单总结

简单来说,羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯(Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate,HPR)是一种维A类视黄酸酯衍生物, CAS号为893412-73-2, 分子式为C26H38O3, 目前主要应用于抗老、皮肤调理等功效型化妆品。

它和视黄醇虽然都属于维A类相关成分,但并不是同一种物质。 HPR具有不同的分子结构和配方特性, 因此近年来逐渐成为维A类护肤品开发中的一种重要原料选择。

对于化妆品研发和采购人员来说, 除了了解“羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是什么”, 还应该重点关注纯度、HPLC检测方法、稳定性、溶解性、储存条件以及实际HPR活性物含量, 这些指标往往比单纯比较产品名称或者添加量更有实际意义。

常见问题

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是A醇吗?

不是。A醇通常指Retinol,而羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯是Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, 两者属于不同的维A类化合物。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯简称什么?

通常简称为HPR。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯CAS号是多少?

CAS号为893412-73-2。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯分子式是什么?

分子式为C26H38O3。

羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯主要用于什么?

目前主要应用于抗老、改善肤质、皮肤调理等功效型化妆品配方中。 具体产品效果取决于HPR含量、配方体系、其他复配成分以及实际产品测试结果。

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